Jeremy Scott’s New Moschino Collection: Horrifying, Tacky and Genius

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Our Happy Meal came with a Spongebob toy…. and… beer?!?!

Anyone familiar with the Moschino brand knows of it’s reputation for being subversive. It’s also no secret that Jeremy Scott shares that same humor with the house’s late founder. The difference however is in execution. One of my favorite things about the Moschino label has always been it’s ability to be fun, silly, quirky… while still maintaining a lady-like charm. There’s always been a sweet and sexy feminine sensibility to the clothing that served as the perfect counterpoint to the occasionally over the top humor. It was whimsical. It was Disney princess funny.

When Jeremy Scott was announced as Rossella Jardini’s successor, I was horrified. Actually, afraid. Like I was watching a nightmarish scene unfold before my eyes as I read the reports.  And then this collection came down the runway and all my fears were suddenly justified. I was right. This was the nightmare I’d been anticipating. I gave it a chance at first.  I reminisced briefly about Scott’s own Fall ’12 collection. Bart Simpson sweatshirts! Lisa Frank! I reminded myself that he had once interned for Moschino when he was first starting out. And then braced myself for a play-through of the show. I kept a open mind, I even smiled a few times.  Why? You mean other than the fact that I’d just blogged about a Catwoman show and how fashion doesn’t have to take itself so seriously?

THE GOOD

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“Pronto?”

 The accessories are cute. They’re the sort of cute, whimsical pieces you expect from Moschino. I don’t even like Spongebob and found myself wanting the bright yellow toon printed backpack. Indeed it would appear that the clothing was only backup to the real stars of the show: the accessories. It makes sense to want to take away one of the more charming pieces and incorporate it into your #ootd and, you know, possibly be snapped by a street style photog. Provided you have the $$$ to spend. Many brands survive under the success of it’s accessories and/or fragrances. Scott seems to really understand that.

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….Because I was just thinking that even though I abhor McDonalds, I really want a $1000 Happy Meal bag.

THE BAD

It was too much. I mean, beer cape?  And a parade of munchies makes me think Jeremy Scott was high as a kite when he designed this collection. So horribly tacky and in-your-face was the jabbing-at-consumerism parade, I rolled my eyes.  I see him trying to pay homage to the late Moschino, but his approach was just a little too abrasive. Too loud. Too…. “this is how we do it in America.” I was embarrassed.

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Left: Moschino smile jacket 1992 (image courtesy Moschino via W magazine)  Right: Scott’s Spongebob Squarejacket.

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Did you want fries with that bag?

I actually loved the humor in this look at first. looking back though, there is such a disconnect here. Particularly because the people that actually have to wear that uniform can’t afford Moschino. Even at a senior management level, my cousin wasn’t sporting designer bags. It’s like the rich thinking it’s fun to cosplay as the poor. Also, how many Italians in Italy actually eat McDonalds? The more I think about it, the more it offends me.

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Also, was the use of the classic Chanel jackets and quilting a jab at the iconography of the label (Franco Moschino was once sued by the label for his famous t-shirt bearing a television and the words “Channel No. 5”) or is Scott already planning on taking over another label in the future? (Karl Lagerfeld did once say that Scott was the only designer that could ever succeed him at Chanel. )

THE GENIUS

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Jourdan Dunn makes a stunning Hershey Chocolate Bar.

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This dress makes Lindsey Wixon look fat…conscious.

Everyone is talking about this collection. He’s succeeded in putting Moschino back on everyone’s radar. We may not be in love with everything we’ve seen, but one thing’s for certain: Jeremy Scott has piqued our interest, and we look forward for what else he has in store for the label. For better or worse.

Moschino - Runway - Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Autumn/Winter 2014

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